Cheapest used camera bodies on eBay, live right now.

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How to buy a used camera (what to check)

Shutter count is the camera's mileage. A DSLR or mirrorless shutter is rated for a number of actuations (often 100,000-300,000), and a used body's count tells you how much life is left. Many cameras embed it in the file metadata; ask the seller to run a recent photo through a free shutter-count site, or to state it. A low count on an older body is a good sign; a very high count means the shutter may need replacing.

Inspect the sensor and mount. Ask for a photo taken at a small aperture (f/16) of a plain white wall: dark spots reveal sensor dust (cleanable) or scratches (not). Check the lens mount and contacts for wear, the screen and viewfinder for cracks, and that every dial and button works. On mirrorless bodies, confirm the electronic viewfinder has no dead lines.

Buy into the right system. The body is only half the decision: you are really buying into a lens mount. Canon RF, Sony E and Nikon Z have the deepest modern lens ranges; older DSLR mounts (Canon EF, Nikon F) have huge, cheap used-lens catalogues, which is exactly why last-generation DSLRs are such good value second-hand. Decide which lenses you want, then buy the cheapest body that takes them.

Body-only or kit. A body-with-lens listing at a slightly higher price is often better value than a bare body, since a used kit lens is cheap to add separately anyway. Used camera gear typically sells 30-50% below new and holds value well afterwards, so it is a low-risk buy if you check the shutter count and sensor first.

Common questions

Cheapest by model, at a glance

A daily snapshot of the lowest genuine eBay price for every model we track, and how good that price is right now versus its usual level, updated automatically. Prices last refreshed 12 October 2026. Tap a price to see that model's cheapest listings on eBay, or tap a model name for the full live list here.

These are second hand prices, listed by sellers as used or pre-owned, taken from live eBay US listings in US dollars. In collectible categories a sealed or unworn item is sometimes the cheapest genuine listing, and it is included. The same number works both ways: it is what a buyer pays today and the resale value a seller can realistically ask. Every model also carries a price history, the daily record kept since tracking began, which is the part to read before you buy or resell. On a day when a model has no listing that passes these filters, its row keeps the last price we recorded rather than inventing one, and drops off this table if that goes on for more than a few days.

Sensor format decides more about a used body than the megapixel count does: it sets which lenses fit, how the camera behaves in low light, and most of the price gap between two bodies of the same age. Sort this column to read the table largest sensor first.

Under each model is the actual listing that price came from, so you can see whether it is the thing you want or a bundle, a variant, or an accessory that happens to share the name.

Over the period we have tracked, this category is down 6.6%, while the used market as a whole is down 0.3%. See the Used Price Index, which is built from these prices and published as a free CSV.

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